AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
AMGA SPI Course
- May 23-25, 2026 @ Lover's Leap
- July 24-26, 2026 @ Lover's Leap
- $595 per Person
- 6 Students per Instructor
Or call/text us at (916) 299-0711
Begin Your Career as a Professional Climbing Instructor!
This 3-day, 27-hour program is an official American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course.
Professionalize your climbing expertise with the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course. Designed for climbing enthusiasts seeking to turn their passion into a profession or enhance their skills for taking groups out climbing. This comprehensive program equips you with the knowledge and techniques to confidently lead single-pitch climbing outings. You’ll delve into topics such as risk management, anchor building, belay techniques, instructional methodology, and more!
This is the only single-pitch instruction curriculum in the US that is endorsed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association.
More details can be found at the AMGA Website and in the AMGA SPI Program Handbook.
**Do not sign up unless you are certain you meet the prerequisites listed below**
3 Participant Minimum (if the minimum is not met you will be fully refunded)
Itinerary/Curriculum
This course is held over three 9-hour days totaling 27 hours. Below is a standard course outline although the program will almost certainly deviate from this. You can reference the sessions in the Program Handbook.
Day 1:
Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
Session 2: Professionalism
Session 3: Equipment
Session 4: Knots and Hitches
Session 5: Belaying
Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
Session 7: Teaching
End-of-Day Debriefs
Day 2:
Session 8: The Climbing Site
Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
Session 10: Base-Managed Sites
Session 11: Assistance Skills: Base-Managed Sites
Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
End-of-Day Debriefs
Day 3:
Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
Session 14: Top-Managed Sites
Session 15: Lowering
Session 16: Assistance Skills: Top-Managed Sites
Session 17: Rappelling
Session 18: Climbing Movement
Session 19: Review Sessions
Final Individual and Group Debriefs
Equipment
**This is taken from the AMGA SPI Handbook**
Clothing
Clothing should be appropriate for the activity and environment. Depending on venue and season, temperatures may fluctuate from sub-freezing to wet to hot—sometimes all in the same day, so please arrive prepared. A system that allows for multiple layering options is recommended.
Footwear
Footwear is one of the most important pieces of equipment for the instructor and is directly related to instructor security. Approach shoes with sticky rubber are encouraged for increasing instructor security, especially at the top of the cliff. In areas of high rain, mud, grass, or leaves, shoes with suitable tread may be substituted. Appropriate climbing shoes that allow the instructor to climb up to 5.8 while wearing for extended periods of time are necessary.
Backpack
A pack of sufficient size is important for the climbing instructor. One that can fit all personal and group gear comfortably inside of the pack, such that ideally nothing needs to be strapped to the outside. Depending on the day, a 35-55L pack will accomplish this. The climbing instructor relies on a larger pack as they may carry additional equipment such as static set-up ropes, duplicate gear for larger groups, and teaching equipment.
Technical Equipment
- Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved
- Climbing Harness, UIAA approved with belay loop
- Climbing shoes or approach shoes in which the candidate can climb up to 5.8 top rope
- Standard “lead climbing rack” such as, cams, stoppers/nuts, etc. (hexes and tri-cams if desired) with which the candidate can lead up to 5.6, including stopper/nut removal tool
- 8 -12 quickdraws or 24″ (60cm) sewn slings/runners with carabiners (emphasis on sling draws)
- 1-2 48”(120cm) sewn sling/runner (helpfulto have one nylon)
- 4 or more locking “HMS/Pearbiners”
- 4-5 additional locking carabiners
- Tube-type belay/rappel device, such as the BD “ATC”
- Mechanical assisted braking device, such as the Petzl “GriGri”
- 1-2 Prusik loops (1m of 6mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
- 1-2 Cordelettes (5m of 7mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
- 1 optional 180cm “triple” or 240cm “quad” sling for anchoring.
- One 60m “single” dynamic rope (9.5-10.2mm) suitable for leading and top roping.
- One 30-50m static or “semi static” (gym line) rope (9-10.5mm), for setting up anchors and
fixed lines.
Prerequisites
- You are a Professional Member of the AMGA.
- You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
- You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
- You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
- You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
- You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
- You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
Next Course Details
- May 23-25, 2026 @ Lover's Leap
- July 24-26, 2026 @ Lover's Leap
- $595 per Person
- 6 Students per Instructor
Or call/text us at (916) 299-0711
stoked
