AMGA SPI Assessment
AMGA SPI Assessment
- June 27 & 28 @ Donner Summit
- August 29 & 30 @ Donner Summit
- $449 per Person
- 6 Candidates per Instructor
Or call/text us at (916) 299-0711
Gain or Recertify your SPI Certification!
Ready to become a Single Pitch Instructor? Looking to recertify? The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Assessment is your gateway to professional climbing instruction certification.
This two-day assessment (minimum 16 hours) takes place at carefully selected single-pitch climbing areas featuring traditional lead routes of 5.6 difficulty, top rope routes of 5.8 difficulty, and complex anchor-building challenges. You’ll be evaluated across five critical areas that define exceptional climbing instruction: Risk Management, Technical Systems, Movement, Professionalism, and Instructional Technique
We are committed to creating a low-stress atmosphere designed to bring out your best performance. You’ll have the opportunity to demonstrate that you meet the rigorous standards required for AMGA Single Pitch Instructor certification.
More details can be found at the AMGA Website and in the AMGA SPI Program Handbook.
**Do not sign up unless you are certain you meet the prerequisites listed below**
2 Participant Minimum (if the minimum is not met you will be fully refunded)
Itinerary
This assessment is held over two 8 to 9-hour days. Below is a very loose outline of the two days. You can reference the sessions in the Program Handbook.
Day 1:
Session 1: SPI Assessment Orientation
Session 2: Lead Climbing and Top Rope Session
Session 3: Technical Components
End-of-Day Debriefs
Day 2:
Session 4: Group Management
Session 5: Teaching Components
End-of-Assessment Group and Individual Debriefs
End-of-Day Debriefs
Equipment
Please reference the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program Handbook.
Clothing
Clothing should be appropriate for the activity and environment. Depending on venue and season, temperatures may fluctuate from sub-freezing to wet to hot—sometimes all in the same day, so please arrive prepared. A system that allows for multiple layering options is recommended.
Footwear
Footwear is one of the most important pieces of equipment for the instructor and is directly related to instructor security. Approach shoes with sticky rubber are encouraged for increasing instructor security, especially at the top of the cliff. In areas of high rain, mud, grass, or leaves, shoes with suitable tread may be substituted. Appropriate climbing shoes that allow the instructor to climb up to 5.8 while wearing for extended periods of time are necessary.
Backpack
A pack of sufficient size is important for the climbing instructor. One that can fit all personal and group gear comfortably inside of the pack, such that ideally nothing needs to be strapped to the outside. Depending on the day, a 35-55L pack will accomplish this. The climbing instructor relies on a larger pack as they may carry additional equipment such as static set-up ropes, duplicate gear for larger groups, and teaching equipment.
Technical Equipment
*All equipment is mandatory for the assessment. Candidates cannot share equipment.*
- Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved
- Climbing Harness, UIAA approved with belay loop
- Climbing shoes or approach shoes in which the candidate can climb up to 5.8 top rope
- Standard “lead climbing rack” such as, cams, stoppers/nuts, etc. (hexes and tri-cams if desired) with which the candidate can lead up to 5.6, including stopper/nut removal tool
- 8 -12 quickdraws or 24″ (60cm) sewn slings/runners with carabiners (emphasis on sling draws)
- 1-2 48”(120cm) sewn sling/runner (helpfulto have one nylon)
- 4 or more locking “HMS/Pearbiners”
- 4-5 additional locking carabiners
- Tube-type belay/rappel device, such as the BD “ATC”
- Mechanical assisted braking device, such as the Petzl “GriGri”
- 1-2 Prusik loops (1m of 6mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
- 1-2 Cordelettes (5m of 7mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
- 1 optional 180cm “triple” or 240cm “quad” sling for anchoring.
- One 60m “single” dynamic rope (9.5-10.2mm) suitable for leading and top roping.
- One 30-50m static or “semi static” (gym line) rope (9-10.5mm), for setting up anchors and
fixed lines.
Prerequisites [MANDATORY]
- You are a current member of the AMGA.
- You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past 2 years. For those renewing, their SPI certification must be valid or within 1 year expiration.
- You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
- You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
- You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
- The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (3-6 months).
- You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.
Recertification and Upkeep
- Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.
- After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to regain the SPI certification.
- Successfully completing or passing any higher level AMGA Course also recertifies the SPI certification for another three years.
12-month SPI/CWI Certification re-entry period:
Any certified SPI who’s certification expires will have a 12-month re-entry period to regain certification. During the re-entry period their certification is no longer valid. In order to regain certification they must pass a 2-day SPI Exam during the re-entry period. If they do not pursue recertification during the 12-month re-entry period, they will be required to retake the entire SPI Course prior to an SPI Exam to regain certification.
2-Year SPI Course Sunset Time:
The SPI Course has a sunset time of two years. After two years, if the SPI Course graduate has not passed an SPI Exam, they will need to retake the SPI Course prior to pursuing the SPI Exam. There is no minimum time frame between successful completion of the SPI Course and when you can participate in the SPI Exam, as long as the candidate meets the prerequisites for the SPI Exam. Most successful candidates practice their skills for 3-6 months prior to taking the SPI Exam.
Resources
Please set yourself up for success by reviewing the many resources available for the SPI program.
- Shared Resource Folder
- This contains evaluation templates, resume templates and the extremely useful Program Handbook.
- The AMGA SPI Program Handbook
- Worth mentioning again! Such a useful resource.
- The AMGA Single Pitch Manual
- This book contains all the technical details for performing any portion of the exam
- Technical Skill Videos
- Munter Mule Overhand (AMGA.com>Tech Videos>Members Only Rock>Rescue)
- Top Rope Tethers (AMGA.com>Tech Videos>Members Only Rock>SPI)
- Ground Anchors (AMGA.com>Tech Videos>Members Only Rock>SPI)
- Friction Hitches
- Raising Systems 3:1
- Rappel Extensions
- Belaying with a Munter (Top Site)
- Belaying with a Gri Gri (Top Site)
- Back Up Belaying
kevin@verticalpursuitsclimbing.com
Next Course Details
- June 27 & 28 @ Donner Summit
- August 29 & 30 @ Donner Summit
- $449 per Person
- 6 Candidates per Instructor
Or call/text us at (916) 299-0711
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